The Going Homeless Project nearly finds a home …

The Coffee Shack is the near perfect backpacking experience, initially the plan was to stay three days … it ended up being closer to two weeks. The Going Homeless Project’s only complaint was I had to leave. Reluctantly.

Welcome to Coffee Bay

I can’t recall having as much fun as i did during my stay at Coffee Shack, an epic crowd of travelers, unbelievably friendly staff, great facilities, a beautiful location and and and … I can’t actually wax lyrical enough about Coffee Bay and the Coffee Shack. So i ‘ll just give you some facts and advise you to drink with your left hand and if you’re planning to stay less than a week, expect to change your departure date. Probably more than once.

everything in coffee bay is a landscape

The Coffee Shack accommodation comes in dorms, doubles or you can opt for the more chilled accommodation across the river . There was a self catering kitchen but the epic chow coming out of the Coffee Shacks kitchen meant i didn’t really bother. Breakfast’s range from healthy to fry up’s – often needed to add steel to the previous nights festivities.


They have undoubtedly some of the best joe i have drunk and my mornings often started with a few latte’s before i was willing to engage my brain. Dinner is fifty bucks, and aside from being delicious, you could probably feed two for each portion they serve. They also offer a damn good vegetarian option.

coffee bay … an epic place to be lazy … and active

The Coffee Shack offer a bunch of in-house activities at sixty bucks a person, you get their legendary toasties, killer local knowledge by the hiking guides Jerry and Bra Jon, and the surf instructors Neil and Dan. After a day of absorbing the absolute beauty of Coffee Bay and a good deal of beer i plunged into the in-house day trips.

Beach day … turning ordinary humans in to surfers

The Shack’s Beach Day is a laid back way to get your chillax on – and a good place to start. Essentially it’s a group surf lesson. Kind conditions, in-depth lessons and individual attention have you up and riding waves in no time. Of all the lessons I witnessed the success rate of non surfer to beginner was pretty much 100%. The rest of the afternoon is given over to free surf time to fine tune your skills.

Beach day

You can also rent wetsuits and boards if you just want to take the plunge by yourself. If you want to learn how to surf I am fairly certain Coffee Shack’s Surf school is the place to do it, it’s also by far the most affordable I have encountered and probably the most successful I have witnessed.

Hole in the Wall

The Hole in the Wall hike, which pretty much took the whole day, is another activity you really should do. Along the way guides, Jerry and Jon, give you the skinny on the history, culture and flora at the various stops which inevitably have incredible views over the coastline, I encountered undoubtably some of the most picturesque scenery i have ever seen.

Hiking to Hole in the Wall

The hike itself isn’t to strenuous and regular breaks with aforementioned views make it manageable even for those with giant hangovers. Hole in the Wall is a pretty cool place, and most of our group plunged into the warm waters after the usual toasties for lunch, before relaxing under the trees and just appreciating the stunning landscape.

Mapuzi Cave

I did the Mapuzi Cliffs hike with a little nervousness in my stomach, i am not good with heights, especially when i have to jump off them. Again the hike is relatively chilled and considerably shorter than the Hole in the Wall. After visiting the Cave, the natural jacuzzi and being blown away by the coast – it really is hard to get over how beautiful and untouched it is, it was on to the jumps, everyone did the 5 metre cliff jump into the ocean. Myself included. Conquer fear. Check. After which we made our way back to the river for another jump and onto a lazy lunch by the Mapuzi river.

The Cliff Jump

The village walk is a great introduction to the local tribes, villages and culture. A visit to the sacred pools and a local lunch of pap and stew with one of the families in the village followed by a visit to the local shebeen for some beer rounds off a very cruisy day. It’s the easiest of the hikes and well worth it. There are also some epic photo opportunities.

University of Afritude

Having done all the activities, I settled in for some relaxation and it didn’t take long until I was struggling to leave, Coffee Shack gets you in a way that is hard to explain. I met so many cool people, many of whom I would now consider friends and this I think is the crux of Coffee Bay and the Coffee Shack, it creates an environment to not only enjoy and experience the beauty of the area but to get to know people beyond the usual where you from and where you going. And this is what makes the Coffee Shack such a special place.

Coffee Bay … its like heaven, with beer and cool people

Pay them visit and expect to stay a lot longer than you intend. I am already planning my next visit.

Thanks to Dave and Bel for the incredible stay at the Coffee Shack, Cindy for all her help, knowledge and laughs and to the folks I met – it was great to meet you, I hope we do again soon. Thanks also to Hi South Africa for organizing.

Just an aside, the Coffee Shack are running an excellent project, a non-profit association, Sustainable Coffee Bay, to promote sustainable development within the greater Coffee Bay area.

Read more about the good work the Coffee Shack are doing here.

Coffee Shack

Coffee Shack is a backpackers tropical paradise located right on the beach at the Bomvu River mouth in the Transkei, a deeply traditional area of South Africa where you’ll experience a way of life far removed from Western culture. We have a reputation of being a fun, good-value hostel with excellent facilities and the most amazing, friendly staff. Most visitors rate Coffee Shack as a highlight of their SA tour


Sustainable Coffee Bay

Sustainable Coffee Bay is a non-profit association established by Coffee Shack Backpackers to promote sustainable development within the greater Coffee Bay area. The objective is to improve the lives and life-prospects of rural communities who are unable to realise their full potential, or achieve full participation in their environment.


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9 Responses

  1. Cor says:

    Yo Stu!

    It was hard to see you go so abruptly on Saturday morning – I was still planning a fishing trip for us when you greeted me.
    Awesome times, and this blog is flippen cool. Keep it going, I’ll be following it.


  2. mzansigirl says:

    Another awesome post Stu. I think I need to take some photography lessons from you. Your pics take me back to Coffee Bay. I spent 9 months in Coffee Shack, it’s like my second home. Love Coffee Bay! So jealous of your Going Homeless trip. Hope you make it to Bulunugla and Mdumbi too.

  3. stu says:

    Thanks … Did a day trip to Mdumbi, but time constraints mean I have to head back down the coast, but I am going straight back to get more of Coffee Bay, Bulungula and Mdumbi as soon as I have wrapped up some stuff Cape Town side.

  4. Gareth says:

    Ahoy Stu, nice post brother, i was chatting to you up on the hill above Coffee Shack at Sundowners, a couple weeks back. I got stuck there for 2 weeks too, hardest place I had to leave haha.

    Digging your blog bro!

    • stu says:

      Hey Bro … Shot for the comment, yea i needed to get out before i got seriously stuck but i am heading back in a few weeks for a redux and some more chillax. Checked out your site. Dig your work. Seriously cool.

  5. Stunning stunning photo’s – thank you for sharing and reprezenting the Transkei so beautifully!

  1. August 16, 2012

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